COLCHESTER Master 170mm. Colchester Master VS 3250 Centre Lathes. Colchester Typhoon L65 MY with Fanuc 0i TF Manual Guide. Opel Gtc Repair Manual. Just arrived at DRMT Machine Tools is this Colchester Master Variable Speed 3250 Centre Lathe. With lots of additional equipment this little centre lathe would make a fine addition to your machine shop as a back up spindle or training machine. Colchester master mk 1 1/2. Do you have a copy of the manual that would deal with this lathe? I could likely fabricate the missing parts.
Hello everyone, Well, I went and bought another Colchester lathe over the weekend. I had seen the ad on Kijiji a month ago when the fellow was asking $500.00 more than this time around, so when it appeared again, I decided to go have a look. To be honest. I went to look at it while hauling a tip-car-trailer.
For some reason, that fact did not escape the seller and seemed to void any chance of me haggling on the price. The drive from Moncton, New Brunswick to Dartmouth, Nova Scotia was a bit hairy at times with heavy downpours and lots of stops on the way back to readjust the tarp. I had hosed it down with WD-40 before we loaded it, so when I got home, ther was very little that I had to do to dry what little did get wet. I'm not sure if I am correct in calling this lathe a MK 1 1/2 or not. It seems to fit what I've read on 'Tony Lathes UK'.
This lathe came out of a Nova Scotia Community College, complete with the cross-slide scarring inflicted whilst engaged in battle with the 4-jaw chuck. Other than that, it seems to be in pretty good shape. The 'Induction Hardened' ways have some light staining, but appear to be pristine, at least to my eye. It came with a Burnerd 3-jaw chuck, a Burnerd 4-jaw chuck, a Burnerd scroll collet chuck (no collets), follow rest, steady rest, 4-way toolpost, catch plate, live center, a telescopic taper attachment, coolant pump, as well as all the necessary keys and wrenches.
It has all of the original electrical equipment with a 3-phase 3hp motor built by the 'Lancashire Dynamo & Crypto Ltd.' Of Willesden, London.
Here's a few pics of the lathe. The second photo shows the true and original colour of the lathe. Serial # appears to date it to 1967. Collet chuck.
Telescopic taper attachment. Battle scars. That's all that I have for now. Thanks for your interest. Hello Tom, Thanks. I'm real happy with it.
I checked the ways with a test indicator last night, using the (indicator riding on the carriage, in contact with the flat tailstock way method) and found that there was only.0005 difference from end to end. I realize that this method isn't perfect, but when using the same method on my 13' South Bend, it measured.015 difference. Well, I paid more for it than I wanted to, but like I said at the beginning of the thread. 'When you show up with a trailer you lose all bargaining power'.
I paid $2000.00 for it. The taper is 'LO'.
The collet chuck that came with it is a scroll chuck, so I think that if I can find collets for it that don't demand a kings ransom, I'll use it the way that it is. Yes, a BXA tool post is a must, but I'm not sure about digitals at this point. Because I'm a novice, I want to learn this machine manually to see if I can't get my skill level up to snuff and find out just how accurately I can get to size with just the dials. I'm sure that I'll consider DRO's in the future.
I made two new cork gaskets for both the headstock and the QCGB last night and drained all of the old oil out. This morning I will fill both gear boxes with fresh oil. I ended up contacting Shell Oil Canada with the Tellus #'s 27 and 32 and received this information. Shell Tellus Oil 27 is now Shell Tellus Oil S2 M 32. Shell Tellus Oil 33 is now Shell Tellus Oil S2 M 68.
These are both high quality hydraulic oils that I was able to purchase at a local bulk supplier in 5 gallon pails. They were $65.00 each. You could likely buy a cheaper grade of 32 and 68 but I figure that why skimp on such a vital area of the lathe. I plan on taking the compound and cross-slides apart to clean them up and make sure that all of the oiling holes aren't plugged up with grease.
I'll likely do the same with the carriage. Coleman 2500 Watt Generator Manual. I'll change whatever felts that I find and readjust all of the gibs.
I don't plan on repainting the lathe at this point, just get it adjusted and make some chips. $2000.00 was likely top dollar,BUT,you got the steady and follower rests,saving the PITA of trying to find them. I hope the battering of running into the chuck MANY times has not hurt the mechanisms that drive the carriage,or the spindle or its bearings.
Too bad people cannot pay attention when their%$^ lathe is running!!! Other than that,being a school lathe,perhaps it was not run forever on long,daily shifts. It looks like a nice lathe to me. You even got the taper attachment,which is another great piece of luck. If there is no damage from the crashes,I think you did o.k.,compared to what you can get new. At least,the lathe has nicely shaped castings,and not just the square boxes upon boxes that new lathes have.
I do appreciate an aesthetically pleasing lathe,though it doesn't affect performance. Just nice to have.
I'll bet it cleans up and paints up real nice. I am excessive,i know,but I'd get some Dura bar and make a whole new compound for it,were it mine. Not that hard to do. It doesn't seem to even have tapered gibs,though they can be machined in place,too.